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When compiling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee familiar high-end venues. But, tucked prominently among these food giants is a modest salonu found in a outlying corner of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. The honour has left the owners completely astonished.

“I am completely astonished,” says the family member, alluding to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their modest shop earning such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has kept much of its original feel. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the fare, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate beyond its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this gastronomic honour.